The Ultimate Groundhopper’s Guide to Visiting Buenos Aires
So, you’ve decided to make that once-in-a-lifetime groundhopping trip to Buenos Aires. What’s the matchday protocol, and how do you get hold of tickets? Read on…
Buenos Aires is arguably the top city for football in the world: absolutely incredible scenes inside and outside the ground, every club has their own stadium, and people wear their club shirts around the city as a statement. It’s absolutely football mad.
However, travelling to Buenos Aires to groundhop comes with several key questions, specifically around safety, securing tickets, and navigating the city.
Is Buenos Aires safe to groundhop?
Generally, yes, but as anywhere, you need to be savvy and streetwise and take precautions against pickpocketing and scams.
The general rule of thumb anywhere in Buenos Aires, in and around football, is dress down. Personally, I had a secret money pocket with only what I needed accessible and took off my watch, no flashy brands, wear the club colours of where you’re going on matchday.
Safety in numbers and knowing locals is always beneficial. Be super vigilant at stations, in particular. Expect to see quite a bit more homelessness than you may be used to, depending on where you’re from.
Daytime matches are probably a safer option, especially if you’re on your own. I hear mixed reports about visiting clubs and areas that come with a reputation (e.g. Nueva Chicago, Deportivo Riestra, Dock Sur, San Telmo…). Some people were fine with it, and others say they were dodgy.
Even when visiting a ‘Big Five’ club like San Lorenzo, you’ll need to know where you’re going. One false turn at the Nuevo Gasómetro, home of San Lorenzo, and you could end up in the city’s largest villa (shanty town).
Around the ground, there will likely be a previa, a pre-match street party. These are an essential part of the Argentine football matchday tradition, with barbecues (asados) of steak, choripán (a chorizo baguette) and the consumption of beer and fernet, a herbal liquor mixed with cola.
Within the ground, the platea (side stands) is where the families and regular fans tend to sit. You’ll pay more here, but you’ll have a great view of the displays in the populares (end stands behind the goals). If you choose to go in the populares, you’ll likely be among the barra (hardcore fans).
Argentinian fans expect tourists nowadays, just don’t have your phone out all match and be sensible; like, don’t go sticking your mobile in some barra members’ face. Personally, I only took photos and video during the recibimiento (reception) when the teams came out, then put my camera away while play was on, except for the odd shot.
I have been in the popular at Boca Juniors near La Doce (Twelfth Man) barra, and I just kept to the periphery, and avoided speaking English.
Talking of speaking English, British (particularly, English) visitors might have concerns around reception due to the Falklands/Malvinas conflict (1982), and there is a lot of public messaging around the islands, you’ll see the silhouette of them on trains and buildings, but you’ll most likely have no issue. If anything, Argentines will probably want to talk about the Premier League. I’ve been to Argentina twice, and it’s never been raised.
When’s best to go?
The Argentinian league is very different to European structures. It is split into two halves, the Torneo Apertura (Opening Tournament) and Torneo Clausura (Closing Tournament). There is therefore football most of the year, except typically mid-December to mid-late January, the height of the Argentine summer. However, with so many changes, check out the official website for fixtures.
There will be a gap in 2026 for the World Cup, of course.
The Copa Libertadores and Copa Sudamericana will start in February and culminate in late November. So, worth checking ahead of your planned visit.
I went in October/November, which is nice temperature-wise during the day, but can get chilly at night. I went then partly for the springtime temperatures, and when the jacaranda is out, Buenos Aires looks and smells sensational, but also because there was plenty to play for.
In my opinion, scheduling is a nightmare. As in Spain, Italy, Portugal, and Uruguay, fixtures for the round are set out in advance, but the exact dates and times are not confirmed until a few weeks beforehand. So, you’ll need to be flexible. On my most recent trip to Buenos Aires and Montevideo, I had three weeks there, so I had to take potluck with my games depending on what was on. I prioritised the grounds/clubs I wanted to see first to make sure they were on the itinerary, then the rest was a bonus.
How do I get tickets for football matches in Buenos Aires?
This is where it gets tricky. Away fans have been banned in Buenos Aires for more than a decade in league matches (this might be changing, so watch this space).
For games at the most popular grounds, those of Boca Juniors and River Plate, you will definitely have to use a tour company, and expect to pay a couple of hundred US dollars, even for a regular league match. But, if you’re going all that way, it’s worth it. Tour companies will include English-speaking guides with local knowledge and often provide food beforehand, so it’s a complete experience. I used Pibe de Barrio for several matches (disclosure: they sponsored my podcast at the time).
Both clubs have decent museums/tours, too.
Tour companies are also a solid route for other grounds, but you’ll be paying above the odds. Another route is knowing a local. If you don’t know anyone personally, you may be lucky on social media. It helps if you speak Spanish.
Some places are fine with foreigners. I had no problem with buying tickets online at Vélez Sarsfield and Banfield, while Argentinos Juniors has a specific matchday offer for foreign tourists, including an excellent museum tour and match ticket.
Be aware that Argentina is a very cash-focused economy. You will need to go to a Cambio to change your US dollars into the local peso.
Navigating the city
Buenos Aires has a fairly comprehensive metro network, the Subte (Subterráneo – Underground) and decent overland connections.
To get around, you can get a SUBE card from a kiosk in a Subte station and charge it up on machines, much like in many cities around the world.
There are also buses (Colectivos), private cabs, and I used Uber a lot, especially late at night.
If you’re going all the way to Argentina, may I recommend a quick jaunt over to Montevideo to groundhop there, or at least do the stadium tours of two stadiums that are critical to football’s story, el Estadio Centenario and Gran Parque Central?
Essential Reading on Argentine football
Before you head to Argentina, read:
Angels with Dirty Faces by Jonathan Wilson is a general history of the Argentine game.
Tears at the Bombonera and Dame Bola by Chris Hylland for a groundhopper’s first-hand account of experiencing Argentine football, and to understand the language of the game.
Oh, San Lorenzo by Will Dalton. It’s not all about San Lorenzo, but Los Cuervos (The Crows) are the lens through which Charlton Athletic fan Will explores Argentine football as a foreigner.
For more recommendations, read this post on the best books on South American football.
All in all, Buenos Aires is an absolute must for groundhoppers. There are so many clubs, some great museums, and the people are brilliant. Get to know the locals and you’ll have friends for life.